Mummers On Parade

2008 began with a bigger bang than I thought it would. Shortly after I posted last night's entry, I heard a big boom across Peter Creek from my apartment. Sure enough, as they did last year, my neighbors on Kendall Boulevard and down the street set off beautiful (but admittedly illegal in New Jersey) fireworks that lifted my spirits a bit. The display was well-done for amateurs, and I enjoyed it more than the bigger Fourth of July display in some ways. (For one thing, it was a lot drier than last Fourth of July.)

I went to bed after that so I could get up early for the Mummers' Parade and to go out to breakfast. I awoke to a steady rain shower - not a good sign. Still I finished Hairspray and headed out under an umbrella to find the restaurant my sister Rose recommended for breakfast, then realized it was probably in Haddon Heights - too far to walk in the weather - and after an hour of searching, wound up at the Newton Diner on the White Horse Pike in Oaklyn. I had a waffle with hot apple topping and whipped cream, and in deference to the holiday, ham. One of my customers said last night that it's good luck to eat pork on New Year's.

By the time I got out of breakfast (which was quite good), the rain was gone and the clouds were vanishing, though it was quite windy and growing colder. I made a brief stop at Dad and Uncle Ken's to say "hi" before returning my umbrella, hopping on my bike, and heading into Philadelphia for the Mummers' Parade.

This was a really big deal for me, the first major city parade I've ever seen up close. After a slightly scary moment on the PATCO Speedline train (some idiot brought liquor on the car when there were cops around) and a confusing one when I realized I was going where the new paper ticket entrances were instead of heading for the old plastic ticket entrances, I realized I had an advantage over the crowds of families and college students coming into the city from the New Jersey suburbs. I had some idea of where I was going. I ducked away from the masses and headed for the 12th and Locust Street exit, which dropped me a block and a half away from the parade.

The Mummers' Parade in Philadelphia is something else. I walked straight into something of a cross between Mardi Gras' and Cape May's Halloween Parade. As it turned out, I didn't miss nearly as much of the parade as I thought. The rain had delayed the parade for more than three hours, so I got to see it from almost the beginning. I really loved what I saw. Mummers are local string bands and clubs who dress in amazing costumes covered with ruffles, beads, feathers, sequins, and tulle, carry cute little parasols, and strut and dance (or lightsaber duel) from South Philly to City Hall. (I actually saw the end of the parade route on Broad Street, between the Avenue of the Arts and the Borders across from City Hall.)

Naturally, my favorites were the "fancy" floats with the well-recreated Star Wars and Hairspray themes, but there were some cute string bands and comic bands, too. (The decidedly non-PC cavalry-and-Indians group I encountered when I first hit Broad Street was particularly amusing, and I also liked the Shrek comics.) I spent three hours walking up and down Broad Street, watching the parade from various vantage points and enjoying my ability to wedge into small spaces as one of the few people in Philadelphia watching the parade alone.

The crowd was just as much fun. Mummers threw beads to screaming, horn-blowing, incredibly sloshed college students. They patted kids' heads and shook their parents' hands. Despite many people probably having been there since the parade's original 8:50 starting time, everyone was in high spirits. (Some of the college kids too much so.) Vendors sold stuffed animals on "leashes," plastic inflatable toys, balloons, wacky fuzzy hats, New Year's top hats and tiaras, feather boas, and long, very noisy plastic horns. There were booths for funnel cake and hot dogs near FYE, and people with carts sold huge pretzels big enough to feed three starving third world nations for a month. I didn't buy anything, but it added to the carnival atmosphere.

By 2:30, though, the parade seemed to be winding down a little. I'd made my way down Broad Street to what's known as the Avenue of the Arts, the section of Broad Street where most of the theaters are. The crowds were thinner here, and there was a nice, cool gust of wind that felt great after the crush of people by Borders. I ducked into a Starbucks for a Peppermint Hot Chocolate and slice of Lemon Pound Cake I didn't finish (I was more cold than hungry) and hit it just right. Even as I sat down with my treats, the line increased to the point where, by the time I left, it was almost out the door.

The parade was continuing, but it was less interesting to me at that point, mostly string bands who were beginning to look and sound alike. Besides, the wind chill was making it seem a lot colder than it probably was, and my feet were freezing. I went right back to the same PATCO ramp on 12th and Locust and went home that way. I rode back to my house from Collingswood and spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out online and eating a simple dinner of pork chops, spinach salad, and wheat noodles.

Here's the link to the main Mummers' site, which can tell you a lot more about the parade than I can: http://www.phillymummers.com/

I hope all of you had a wonderful New Year's and have a safe and happy 2008!